The Polymer or what is the name of the Compound: Brownpolymer. The reason is that it’s a polymer, and being the inventor, they use the inventors last name which is Brown so this is where Brownpolymer came from
The Grease was made for Metal spinning in 1994 as I was trying out for the renaissance fair as a artisan, found a really old formula for lubricating the metal but because of the age there was no chemical names just old names they used.
Some could be translated and the ones I could not I substituted compounds only To come up with a compound that would not wash out of my girl friends Blender. It seem to be immune from just about every solvent I could find Except
Turpentine removes all traces. For 10yrs I used the polymer as Grease for Item with high wear on firearms. At the time I was shooting competition skeet and over and under hinge and firing pins had a problem with lubrication wiping off. The Brownpolymer worked great it left a film that didn't wipe off or transfer to my shooting vest. Further testing it worked great on the outside of the guns for keeping water off as water would not collect on the surface. Gave some samples out to teams that used 1100 Remington semi auto. They wiped a thin film on the magazine tube. Before using Brownpolymer they saw gun jams at 96-99 rounds gun would jam. Wiping on a thin film of Brownpolymer reports of 400 plus rounds with out jamming.
August of 2004 was asked to do a booth at a car show for a friend and need to decorate the booth made a small batch of Brownpolymer and call it old timer grease. The first hour we had people asking what it was and how it works. After telling them it quarks they thought it would be great for polished alum parts on there street rods be resistant to Gasoline. The first hour we sold out of all the containers I had with several venders looking to buy 55 gals at a time
So this led me on the chase for answer to what I had created with several search of chemical compounds none was found to come close to what I have. Further testing by a biologist friend to see if Zebra mussel would stick to a surface coated with this. After nine months nothing had stuck to the metal surface ( It was a Sledge Hammer Head) So asking him what would cause this to happen his respond was that the compound was Toxic or they just could not stick to the surface. So I found a Aqua toxicity lab after speaking with the Lab They sent me a test kit which consisted off Fathead minnows. The test was to put half in clear water with an air pump and some in a container of clear water with a metal coated with Brownpolymer and an air pump. 2 days the minnows with Brownpolymer would be dead. 2 days they where still alive I increased the Brownpolymer coating and after 2 weeks they still where alive a month latter they still where a live. Calling the lab there comment was that the Brownpolymer was non toxic.
With the Help of The Syracuse TDO I received the help from SATOP.
January 2005 I requested some help from SATOP. What I received was 40 hrs of lab work. I receive the platinum level university that would test, My polymer as a new Grease. The university was The University of New Mexico. This was part of the Letter I received
Report on Randy Browns new water proof grease (RB Grease)
Environmental Robots Inc., Albuquerque, NM
January 21, 2005
This effort is in connection with SATOP requested by Randy Brown. Randy has developed a versatile grease/lubricant that is not soluble in water and many solvents (with few exceptions). Randy Browns grease, which is called here the RB Grease is intended to protects finishes, to lubricate, to clean and not to wear off on intended surfaces of gears and other metallic objects and machine parts. Randy had informed us that the RB grease has been tested in different applications by friends and family [home garage testing]. However, he said that no laboratory test has ever been performed and he would like SATOP to test it for durability, environmental and comparative testing w/ other products.
In this report some of the properties of RB grease has been obtained by performing tests on them and further information is provided for Randy Brown to obtain additional test data on his grease. As a whole RB grease is a novel grease that appears to slightly lower than a NLGI (National Lubrication Grease Institute) grade 3 (www.nlgi.org) which is an international technical trade association that serves the lubricating grease and gear lubricant industry. The National Lubricating Grease Institute (NLGI) rates consistency grades of grease on a scale compared to the Cone penetration value. They range from almost fluid, grade 000 to almost solid grade 6. The average penetration test for the RB grease recorded a 279 which is higher than some standard water proof greases such as AMSOIL NLGI grade 3 grease. The average viscosity was about 287 cST (centi stokes) which is a little higher that comparable greases. RB grease was clumpy and did not have the consistency and clarity and homogeneity of standard greases and may need to be mixed further to obtain consistency. The lubricity of the RB grease was estimated to be 138 kg based on Lubricity 4 Ball Test - ASTM.D 2763(IP 239).
Further, Randy Brown's grease (RB Grease) is a novel grease/lubricant that utilizes a new set of materials, Our tests indicate that RB grease meets the requirements of AGMA CG-2 coupling grease specification for couplings operating at high G-forces. It also meets the less severe AGMA CG-1 requirements. This grease has good high-temperature properties, over an a wide temperature range of -20°C to 140º C. RB grease also appears to be environmentally safe as depicted in the MSDS in Appendix A. Included in this report is also two more Appendices B and C on fundamentals of lubrication greases as well as an extensive glossary.
RB Grease Analysis
Historically, the analysis of grease has been confined to new grease testing for product acceptance and quality control. Technically, this was due to the sample size required to perform conventional ASTM (American Society of Testing and Materials) methods on grease samples. However, over the last couple of decades, new analytical methods have made it possible to profile the serviceability of grease using as few milligrams of sample as possible. Randy supplied us with almost a 166 grams of his new grease. I highly recommend Randy Brown to obtain test results from official grease testing companies. Two for these testing companies are:1-Herguth Laboratories, Inc., 101 Corporate Place, P.O. Box B, Vallejo, CA 94590 Fax (707) 554-0109, Phone (707) 554-4611, Toll Free 1-888-HERGUTH (437-4884)
2-Analytical Testing Services, Inc, 191 Howard St; Franklin, PA 16323
Phone: 814-432-7214, FAX: 814-432-9424
I received this letter from some free Lab work that the Syracuse TDO Set up for me.
Hi Randy --
I have tried the following -- numbers are explained**
.Acetone - 2
. chloroform - 3
.Methanol - 1
.Ethanol - 1
.Carbon tetrachloride - 2
.Benzene - 2
.Toluene - 3
.DiCHLOROETHANE - 1
.Dichloromethane - 2
.None of these solvents put your compound into solution.
.There were three main effects**:
1 no effect from solvent
2 swelling and some particulate fracturing
3 a viscous 2-component solution which most likely is grease
Putting any of these solutions into our machine will not yield optimal
results without special experimental treatment -- of which I am not
familar. I beleive that techniques exist to characterize heavy oils
and greases -- however our lab is not familar with them. I will try
and find out the best route -- however I am trying to think of
alternative methods of analysis.
I am not ruling out using the NMR as a method of characterization
presently or in the future -- I don't think that definitive results
will result. Because your compound is more characteristic of a
polymeric material - these trends in analysis would prob. yield more
My first inclination would be to contact someone who has expertise
with polymer characterization methods. I know that SUNY-ESF has a
polymer chemistry division.
(Email received from SU)
Just recently I receive some free Testing from DR Baier of the University of Buffalo.
His interest was to find a compound that work as dolphin skin. As what I have been told was Dolphin skin has the ability to repel or stop organic material from sticking to a surface
The chart of angle: Brownpolymer Residue CST Plot
The article he wrote here: Baier’s Mat’ls Medicine
Testimonials of People that we asked to test this new Compound
Sorry it took so long to get back to you. Like I told you earlier
I'm a locksmith for K-State. Your lube is the perfect lube I found for
Lubricating the spindle, dial, and bolt on our safes and vaults around
Campus. I needed a lube that wouldn't migrate into the wheel pack and
Gum the workings up. I'm really pleased with it. You've got an excellent
Product for the safe and vault men.
Plus I use it on my cylinder pins on my single actions when shooting
Black powder. Seems to allow me to shoot for quite a bit longer than before.
(I also used it to lube my saw blades. I work exclusively with 8/0
blades. This lube was like magic! It helped me cut faster and much
straighter. The only problem I have with it is in applying it to
my sawblades. Its texture is like warm butter so I find myself
using my fingers to apply it to the blade. This can be a problem if
one is in a hurry as those sawblades are rather sharp.
I figured out a way to apply it when sawing. I just put a bit on the
piece I'm cutting and it transfers to the blade.
I also use it on my drawplate. It doesn't rub off like any
conventional waxes and has a nice odor. It's also fairly white so
it doesn't stain. I've tested it as a lube for bright-cutting and
engraving and pave', and it worked like magic, but I use a
GraverMax so YMMV.
I got my Big Tub. I just can't get over this stuff. It works so much
better than that stuff Stuller sells for keeping your burs from
heating up. The only drawbacks I can find are that since it's so
soft, it tends to clog up burs if you use too much, but fortunately
it doesn't require that you use much at all, and it can easily get in
the way of soldering if you don't take care to remove it from an area
you intend to solder. The manufacturer says that only turpentine
removes it, but actually acetone, an ultrasonic with ammonia, and
steam removes it enough to solder. I used it on a #4 file that I was
using on platinum, and on an inside ring bur. It stopped the
chattering instantly on the bur, and made filing much smoother and
faster. I also use it on the threads of a lamp I bought at Target
tonight, and last week used it on a customers finger to remove a
The maker calls it "Snake Oil." I'm beginning to understand why! :)
Yes, I have smeared the polymer on many different things. I was
going to see how it did this past week. So far, the results have
been very good.
I put it on the unpainted surfaces and foot of my sewing machine
and the surfaces have been rust free. At first, it rubbed off on my
hands and was a dirty mess. Maybe I should have cleaned the surface
first with steel wool. After rubbing it well, the surface smoothed
out and is rust free. It doesn't get on the fabrics which have been
heavy duty polyesters and nylons. I also worked on some salty things
and bags that must have rubbed hard on these surfaces. I usually have
to wipe the rust off after a couple of days of non use.
I have smeared it on a steel block which sits on my bench and so far,
no rust. I put it on the jaws of the flex shaft that are always
rusting. I'd like to try it on my pliers. At the Art Center's metal
studio, I have greased the stakes, railroad ties, anvil, rolling
mill, some hammers, and the tables of a sander (which has been a
troublesome spot with weekly rust). I was really encouraged to find
that a week later, all were rust free! It is very encouraging and
there hasn't been any problems with it reacting to the silver and
copper the students use. It really cuts down on maintenance. I just
thought of another spot I'd like to try it on this weekend.
It has been really humid and rainy the last couple of days so this
will be a good test. I think we have found a good solution for
things that rust and won't have to keep everything in plastic all the
time. It's kind of liberating!
Will keep you posted with any new results.
Thanks for the sample,
(A little while back a guy named Rand posted an inquiry to us to try
out some "grease" or lubricant he invented. I asked him to send me a
I've been using it for a while for various things and I must say I'm
impressed. I tested it on a drill bit. You know how when you drill in
gold or silver and those little chips jump out of the hole? With this
stuff a long curled wire comes out instead. And there's no chattering
like the sound you hear just before your bit snaps off and gets stuck
in the hole. I've used it in my various bur work. It really works
I also used it to lube my saw blades. I work exclusively with 8/0
blades. This lube was like magic! It helped me cut faster and much
straighter. The only problem I have with it is in applying it to my
sawblades. Its texture is like warm butter so I find myself using my
fingers to apply it to the blade. This can be a problem if one is in
a hurry as those sawblades are rather sharp.
I also use it on my drawplate. It doesn't rub off like any
conventional waxs and has a nice odor. It's also fairly white so it
doesn't stain. I've tested it as a lube for bright-cutting and
engraving and pave', and it worked like magic, but I use a GraverMax
It looks like saddle-soap and smells like Johnson's Paste Wax, but
it's really better than that bur-lube they sell and I'm gonna go
ahead and buy a big tub of it.
The guy who sells it is here http://www.enjenjoesproducts.com
(I meant to respond last time but got sidetracked.
Your polymer is pretty good stuff. I used as a bur lube and it made cutting very quick and precise, no chattering. Same for drilling. I also tried it in my bench leverage gauge, which is exposed to chemicals and filings.
It gets sticky on a regular basis. I dabbed a little on the slide and now it moves freely. I put some in my door lock which was sticking a lot, it freed up quickly...we'll see what happens when the freezing weather arrives.
I wanted to run a test on my brake dust encrusted wheels but I'm ashamed to admit I haven't washed the car in months, would need to start the test clean to judge results.
I like that it has a paste consistency, makes it easy to apply yet won't spill like oils.
It's a very good product. I like it. I'll bet it has uses I've never thought of. Can I baste my Christmas turkey with it?
(Neil The Jeweler)
Yes, A second testing of my black powder rifle this spring which helped
to stop leading during extremely hot weather. I also gave one of the
vial to a machinist friend to try but have not yet heard back from him.
I'll ask what his results were next time he comes into the store. I also
used it on the trigger of my wifes 1894 Marlin rifle that she shoots in
NRA silhouette with good results. It smoothed out the trigger nicely.
Now that I think of it, tonight I'll put in on the rails of my 1911 that
I'll be shooting this weekend.
Thanks for staying in touch. Jeff Houck)
(Randy brown had supplied us with samples of his BrownPolymer grease and
in testing we found it does everything he says about it.
It is remarkable in the manner in which it sticks to metal surfaces and
does not wash or wipe off.
There must be some place in the shooting world where this product would
serve better than anything else.
I have used it inside barrels and actions and find it seems to work
like no other product but still I cannot make solid statements saying
everyone should be using it inside barrels.
I have been using it on troublesome mechanical items like a hand held
jig saw which used to over heat in the blade support tube. Moly and
other lubes did not stop this heating.
After a proper cleaning the brown poly grease was applied and ever
since then there has been a noticeable reduction in heat in that one
area. Very impressive I think.
You can obtain a sample plus literature by writing to him on this board.
I have no connection with his business and we are still evaluating the
lube at Pedersoli.